Bake of the week
Warm bebinca, salted coconut cream
Thursday’s bebinca, warmed through and drowned in salted coconut cream. Seven layers, one spoon, no sharing.
$8.50
Goan coffee house & bakery Fort Greene, Brooklyn
An ochre storefront on Greene Avenue with a tiled bench out front, built for sitting on. Coffee from two family estates in Chikmagalur, roasted in the back twice a week, and Goan bakes out of the oven by six. Nobody here will rush you.
01Our story
Anika Fernandes grew up two lanes from 31st January Road in Panjim, in a house with ochre walls, cobalt shutters and a tiled bench by the door where the whole street seemed to sit in the afternoons.
Joel Mathias spent ten years roasting coffee in Bengaluru. In 2016 they took over an old locksmith’s on Greene Avenue, painted the front the exact ochre of her grandmother’s house in Fontainhas, hung blue shutters and built a tiled bench out front. In Goa it’s called a balcão. In Fort Greene, people just sit on it.
The back room became the roastery. The kitchen became a bakery, because a morning without poee is a morning that hasn’t started, in Panjim or in Brooklyn. The rest of the time, we mostly try not to hurry anyone.
— Anika & Joel
03The pour
Every milk drink leaves the lever machine with something drawn on it. The milk is steamed to about 140°F — sweet, glossy, drinkable straight away — and poured into a double shot from a height, then very close. If yours comes out a little wobbly, it is still on the menu, and it tastes exactly the same.
≈300 a day2-group leverMilk at 140°F
Learn to pour: Saturday 10 October04This week
On until Sunday, or until they run out — whichever comes first. Usually the second.
Bake of the week
Thursday’s bebinca, warmed through and drowned in salted coconut cream. Seven layers, one spoon, no sharing.
$8.50
Pour-over of the week
A sun-dried lot from 4,600 ft. Jackfruit, cocoa nib and a little tamarind.
$7.00
Only in October
A scoop of jaggery-and-coconut dodol ice cream under a double espresso.
$7.50
05Bakery & roastery
Everything on the counter started somewhere earlier and further away. Here is the long way round to your cup and your bun.
Two family estates near Chikmagalur, 3,600–4,600 feet up, coffee growing under pepper vines and silver oak. Joel flies out after every harvest, tastes everything, and we import the green beans we’d drink ourselves.
Joel roasts in the back room on a five-kilo drum roaster, in batches small enough to taste every one. Espresso goes a shade darker; filter stays light enough to tell you where it grew.
The ovens go on in the dark: poee and croissants first, then buns and bolinhas. The first tray is out by six. Bebinca, all seven layers of it, happens on Thursdays.
Around three hundred milk drinks a day on the lever machine, kaapi decoction dripped overnight in steel, cold brew steeped for twelve hours. Then somebody rolls up the shutters and puts the cat on the bench.
06On the walls
Every eight weeks we hang a new show by artists from the neighborhood and from back home. Everything is for sale, and the artist keeps every dollar — ask at the counter, or tap a frame for a closer look.
The little blue 14 by the light switch is not for sale. It came off the door of Anika’s grandmother’s house in Fontainhas.
Two CoastsSix artists from Brooklyn and Goa · through 29 November
01
Leela D’Mello b. 1991, Margão
Ramponkar at Dawn, 2025
Two-color risograph, edition of 40
9 × 12 in
$140 · Available
02
Theo Abernathy-Ruiz b. 1987, Bed-Stuy
Arabica, Baba Budangiri, 2026
Two-block reduction linocut, 2/20
11 × 14 in
$220 · Available
03
Grace Oyelaran b. 1979, Lagos
Greene Avenue, Four O’Clock, 2026
Woodblock print, three colors
12 × 18 in
$360 · Available
04
Nina Barreto b. 1995, Panjim
Bolinha, Asleep, 2026
Oil on board, in an oval frame
6 × 8 in
$480 · Available
05
Sam Kowalczyk b. 1984, Greenpoint
Tile Study No. 9, 2025
Gouache on birch panel
10 × 10 in
$280 · Sold
06
Ravi Ferrão b. 1968, Mapusa
Monsoon, Fontainhas, 2024
Watercolor on cotton paper
12 × 16 in
$320 · Available
07Regulars
I came in for one filter kaapi in March. It is now October and I have a regular table.
The bebinca is better than my mother’s. Please do not print that.
My dog has a favorite seat on the balcão. So, it turns out, do I.
Best croissant this side of the East River, and I have checked most of them.
08Sessions
Unhurried, mostly over by dinner, and limited by the number of chairs. Book at the counter or by email.
Sat10 Oct9:00 am
Two hours on the lever machine with Inês, one jug and all the milk you can waste. Leave with a heart, or at least a respectable tulip.
$65
Book a spot for latte art for beginnersEverySunday4:00 pm
Mandos, fado, or whatever the musician feels like that week — on the bench out front while the weather holds. The music is free; the bebinca is not.
Free
Reserve a table for Sunday acoustic sessionsSat24 Oct8:00 am
Slurp, spit, argue. Eight lots from this year’s harvest, tasted side by side with Joel in the roastery.
$25
Book a spot for the cuppingSat7 Nov2:00 pm
Anika’s aunt, visiting from Margão, teaches the seven-layer method. Three hours, one oven and considerable patience.
$85
Book a spot for the bebinca classSat21 Nov7:00 pm
Five courses after hours: prawn balchão, chicken xacuti, sannas, a fish curry rice worth crossing the river for, and bebinca to finish.
$75
Book a spot for the Goan supper club09Visit
Take the C to Lafayette Av or the G to Clinton–Washington Avs; either is a five-minute walk. We’re on Greene Avenue between Vanderbilt and Clinton, the only ochre storefront on the block, usually with a cat on the bench. Bike racks out front; street parking is a Brooklyn sport.
| Monday | Closed |
|---|---|
| Tuesday | 7:00 am – 6:00 pm |
| Wednesday | 7:00 am – 6:00 pm |
| Thursday | 7:00 am – 6:00 pm |
| Friday | 7:00 am – 6:00 pm |
| Saturday | 7:00 am – 6:00 pm |
| Sunday | 7:00 am – 6:00 pm |
Tue–Sun · 7:00 am – 6:00 pm
Kitchen till 3 pm. Bakes until they run out.
Tables for 1 to 8
We keep a handful of tables for bookings and hold them for fifteen minutes. The balcão is first come, first served — that’s the rule, and the cat enforces it.
Request received
We’ve noted your table. We’ll ring to confirm within a few hours.